Getting to grips with town life

I’ve just realised that its been a while since my last blog ! Could blame the lack of connectivity, lack of electricity. lack of water, loads of events happening or just me not being more efficient with my time !  Although all of these have played a contribution I guess its probably the latter being the over-riding factor.

At some point I will blog about my visit to the Liwonde National Park, which was amazing in itself, or my journeys on the local bus on a 5 hour journey which literally had so many people packed in with bags and baggages ( I was sat in the aisle with someone else’s bag on my lap – haha ) that it took 30 minutes just to let someone off!.  

 

 

 

 

 

Actually before I forget about it just a quick mention of the bus journey.  I had to visit Liwonde and the only mode of transport was a bus – So I thought to my self well why not ? My only reservation was that someone helped me find the right bus.  How grateful was I that someone did.  Shamaah, who has looked after me ever since I arrived in Malawi, ( and I must say has been brilliant – have to say that as he reads my blog ! – but seriously without him I wouldn’t know what to do in Malawi at all ) took me to the Bus station.  Get rid of any ideas of one of our bus stations.  Imagine a wembley crowd before they enter the stadium and in the middle of these thousands of people place about 50 buses.  Now put a group of these people probably about 40 – 50 right out side the bus door all claiming that they had the most important reason to board the bus. Put about 5 drivers and Bus conductors ( kind of !) at the entrance shouting that there was no space on the bus  Add the sounds of everyone talking at a volume which would have gone down well in a football stadium, add a hot summers day and you kind of get the picture. Eventually someone and I have no idea who or what he was but literally took me by the hand saying I’ll find you a bus.  After several failed attempts I was again literally escorted on to a bus.  A quick scan around the bus told me there were no spare seats.  I walked down the bus hand in hand with the guy who said he would find me a place and suddenly he stopped and lowered a seat into the aisle of the bus and told me to sit down.  One by one the aisle seats were lowered down and the bus was full. No room to move but I was on.  Not ready to go of course, we sat there for a further half hour when a lady at the front of the bus got on and started talking.in Chichewa ( Malawian language) I felt a little nudge from a young girl next to me.  I turned to her and very quietly she said –

“We’re praying ! ”

“Oh sorry ! ”

and then for half an hour we had prayers, hymns and sermons before money was passed throughout the bus up to the front and our “Bus Service” was over and we eventually set off. To cut a 5 hour journey short the little girl talked to me throughout the journey.  Every so often we stopped to let people off and suddenly we were surrounded by faces at the windows of people selling anything from crisps, fruit, sweets, toys, onions, vegetables. and somethings that I didn’t even recognise but was set straight by my information partner next to me.  At the stop before I got off, I lost my little Malawian guide as she got off. She insisted that I took a selfie of us and she disappeared off the bus..  Just as we were about to set off suddenly she appeared back on the bus at the front gave the biggest smile in the world ever and waved.  It was just like an image from the closing shots of a movie and actually an image that I will always remember

Or tI could talk about the schools that I have visited which is probably deserving of 2 or 3 blogs. The sheer size of classes, upwards from 100 to 250 children in a room with literally a blackboard and no other resources. The expanse of ground that each classroom sits on with no real boundaries for the children to play in, just an open very sandy ground. Or I could talk about an amazing school and an Irish guy who is really trying to change the way children are taught by creating and building classrooms and working with teachers in order to bring the best out of the children.  I have got all those ideas stored in my head, but the trouble is each day brings a new situation and experience. There must be a book in this somewhere ( if only I could write !!! )

Over the last couple of days I have arrived in the area that I’m going to be living in for the next year. The town is Mangochi, a fairly large town by Malawian standards. One main road that runs through it with a few roads that lead off the main road.  And off each of these roads are roads which are not tarmaced just sand and dust. As you go along these paths and roads the overwhelming sight is one of people walking, bicycles, and animals, generally goats and cows of all shapes and sizes.

People walking probably equal the number of bicycles being ridden. If you’ve ever been to Cambridge or Oxford, you’ll know that there are bicycles everywhere.  Compared to Mangochi the number of bicycles in these two University towns are minimal.  There are bicycles everywhere.  Many of them are taxi bicycles, with a padded seat on the back of the saddle.  When I say padded, slight exaggeration as its more like a very thin seat covered in leather. You can either sit sidesaddle or just go for it and sit with your legs either side. Walking down the roads every 50 metres there are ‘taxi bicycles’ strapping enormous loads on to the back of the bikes, people climbing on to the back of the bike with all kinds of articles and bags just balanced on their heads, boxes, plates of fruit, clothes wrapped in a large sheet you name it they balance it on their head.  When you initially see the goods balanced on the head you think that its amazing how they do it, but to then get on the back of a bicycle and still balance it, is just awesome. Whilst walking along the street today, I was continually asked if I wanted a ride.  I declined adding Id rather walk.  With every request to ride you get a very cheery smile, and a laugh and a joke about why not ride instead of walk.

The main streets as I said are mainly tarmac but the side roads are very much dirt tracks. deciding to go and explore, particularly on the motor bike can be an experience as the back wheel slides from side to side as you go over the sand.  I guess its a bit like riding on a beach.  Which is very similar to the paths that people walk along when they aren’t walking along the road! It’s exactly like a path that leads down to a beach, reasonably hard but covered in sand and dust.  In many places there are small blue plastic bags which have been discarded. Being one of very few none Malawians, if not the only one ! I walk down the street and I am  fairly conspicuous. Most people look at you and a great many say hello in all different sorts of ways but the main greeting is – “Hello, How are you, Very well thank you” This is usually said with a smile and in one continuous breath even before I can say “Hello” and “How are you?” The warmth of people is amazing.  If you smile even just slightly the greeting always always comes straight back “Hello, How are you, Very well thank you”

Today I went to a TNM shop ( which is one of the main mobile phone distributors in Malawi) to ask how I put additional air time on a wifi device that I have purchased as it is difficult sometimes to get wifi.  There was a very long queue as usual – they say the British are a nation of ‘queuers’ but compared to Malawians – wow – just try and go to an ATM machine or the bank at the end of the month i.e. payday – you can be there for hours ! I complain when I have to wait 5 minutes in Nat West in England !!! but here they wait extremely patiently and don’t complain at all. Any way I was in TNM, waiting I guess behind at least 8 other people and you moved along a seat when the person had finished at the counter. When, a lovely old man ( actually he was probably younger than me ! ) just said ” You go next !” I declined the offer but he insisted again and again.  The rest of the queue agreed with him and despite my protestations I was literally forced to go next and sit at the counter and feeling very uncomfortable as my query took ages, but when I had finished, the queue which had now doubled in size, just smiled at me and said ” No problem !” Can you imagine that happening in England ???   Throughout my time here I have only met with a great sense of warmth and helpfulness – they say Malawi is the Warm Heart of Africa – so far it certainly is !

 

 

Lessons learned ……..

Still on my In-country Orientation ( or commonly known as “they cant find a house for me !” )  Well that’s not quite true but more about that later.

Heard at the beginning of this week that I just needed 5 sessions on the motor bike before I’m let out onto the Malawian roads – apparently this is a good thing – not me being on the Malawian roads which quite frankly terrifies me, but the fact I only have to do 5 sessions of training as opposed to 15 sessions.  Not sure when they begin but hopefully this week as I clearly need the motor bike when Im in Mangochi.  Presumably I cant go until Im judged to be a safe motor cyclist on roads that are busy to say the least and manic at the worst. Can’t wait !  And of course can’t go yet as havent found a house yet, but that was last week’s adventure.

“We’re off to Mangochi to find a house !”   Great …….. and off we set.  The roads in Malawi. particularly in towns and cities are fairly crowded,but as you get out into the country they are very straight, the traffic eases up but there are always people walking along the sides of the road and every so often there is a police road block and or a speed camera !  Well we stopped at a road block and speed camera and I thought it was a very interesting thing as it was the first time that I had encountered it and in hind sight, well ………. probably not a good idea …… but …….. thought to record events that happened I lifted my camera up to take a photo …………………WRONG decision.   It was not warmly received.  In no uncertain terms I was told to get out of the car, and suddenly was taken back to my school days when standing in front of the head teacher for not wearing my cap to school………….Sorry sir, I didn’t know, Im sorry, It wont happen again, so sorry, I’m new here, I didn’t understand,  etc etc.. That made no difference in my school days and I received the obligatory slipper ! but I thought Id give it a go and fortunately it worked this time.  I was severely told off.  He demanded to see all the photographs and fortunately I hadn’t actually clicked the button so there wasn’t a photo  … It was very much a one way conversation and series of questions which didn’t really expect an answer  except for repetitive “sorry, sorry” Told in no uncertain terms to get back into the car and we were on our way ! Lesson learned !

Looking for houses in Mangochi was a fascinating experience.  It wasn’t an Estate Agent experience more like finding a person, who knew a person who had an uncle who knew someone’s brother  whose cousin was letting a house but it may not be built yet.  Fortunately I had two brilliant people with me who just seemed to know everyone in Mangochi although they’d never met them before !

The morning of the visit gave me my first view  of probably one of the most important geographical landmarks of the country, Lake Malawi.  Apparently the lake has more species of fish than any other lake certainly in Africa if not the world    I was introduced here to what is apparently the best tasting fish you can have – Chambo – so obviously i had to try it A really beautiful lake, that early in the morning had the fishermen collecting their nets and placing their fish in containers ready to sell them  As well as the washing of clothes by the ladies at the waters edge.  The beach at the lake was just a hive of activity.  A fantastic scene to witness and one which I guess I will become used to but seeing it for the first time it just made you stand and take it all in .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                   And then of course the ladies carry their washing home – just amazing

Ready to search for the house we ventured into Mangochi which was just teeming with people, bikes, stalls, sellers, goats, stores    Such a busy place .  With mainly a tarmaced road ( no kerbs of course so its just a raised piece of road) with a few crossroads and then as you turn down these the tarmac gives way to dirt roads, bumps, ridges and all sorts of holes to catch out the uninitiated visitor.  We venture down one such road, with 2 additional passengers, a lady and her nephew, who are our guides to find this house. We arrive outside a house that is surrounded by the wall and security gate.  Looking around the house it looks good and very spacious but sadly it isn’t finished yet, and the builders are still inside it. Interestingly they live inside the house while they build it, their personal mosquito nets are carefully positioned in some of the rooms.  They say it will be finished in 2 weeks.  The plastering needed doing, utilities had to be put in and windows.  It would be very handy if I want to hone up my soccer skills as the football pitch is right in front of the gates.  We wait outside while we try to contact the owner to discuss the cost but sadly she wasn’t availableIt –  definitely looked a good prospect but whether it would be ready for me is another question  We will have to wait and see.    Whilst waiting we buy some small orange fruit ‘things’ for which there isnt an equivalent in English.

 

On to another and another.  Stop off to ask another man who has a friend who has a cousin who might know someone.  This meeting took place right by the Lake, and I was told that if while I was in Mangochi then this would be the place to come and swim. Just come and ask for the owner of these lodges.  I thanked him and thought what a great idea – ………… “Oh but you will just have to mind the crocodiles ‘cos this is where they come ! ”   …………… ” oh ok thanks for that I’ll think about it and let you know ! ”

We venture down what does appear to be a footpath around a very tight corner…………… we drive down the very narrow footpath – eyes closed ( mine I hasten to add not the driver thankfully ! )

At this house I had to stay in the car as we were told that as soon as they saw me, being a different colour to everyone else, the price of the rental would at least double if not treble.  Again I was taken back in my memory when as a child my mother and father, as a rare Sunday treat, went to a country pub.  I dutifully stayed in the car with my lemonade and packet of crisps for an hour or so and waited for their return.

So I sat in the car, ate my orange and I observed the discussion outside the gate and then they went inside the compound to reappear again 10 minutes later. This apparently looked a really good house, which unfortunately they couldn’t go inside as the owner was away but from the outside it looked really good.  So fingers crossed.   We then drove the long journey back to Lilongwe – quite how Im going to do this journey on my motor bike I’m not quite sure.  It goes right through the mountains, a very twisty and steep road where there used to be barriers on the side of the most dangerous bits but these have ‘disappeared’!  But I’m sure after 5 sessions I’ll be raring to go – mmmmmm …do you really think so ? ?

To add to the excitement of the week, those of you who know me, know I can last without food, without comforts etc but I really cant do without music.  Being all prepared I downloaded almost my whole collection of CDs, records ( or as they call it now Vinyls – you young people – huh  ! ) and made sure I had Spotify on every device, though without the Internet not sure how that will work but we will see.  Two days in my Bluetooth speaker, JBL Flip 3, (for those of you who are interested and you’re probably not but I just thought that if someone from JBL sees this they might feel sorry for me and send me a new one ! ) that has worked beautifully for the last year, suddenly decided to just pack in.  Buttons refused to work.  What do you do in situations like this besides for smashing it against the wall and shouting – a’ la John Cleese fashion – “You ********* worked for me in ****** England Why do you ****** wait until now to pack in  ?   I’m going to thrash you within an inch of your life ”  But instead turn to Youtube and some guy in the States had exactly the same problem and without going into detail, as you’ve probably already dropped off to sleep, I managed to get it kind of working, though not as it should !!!  So sanity is restored and the hills are alive again !   Note to JBL I can give you my forwarding address at any time ! And if it stops again. can anyone recommend any good books to read ………………

To round off the week I went with a fellow Volunteer to undergo my first visit to schools.  The whole reason why I’m out here – and wow I was just blown away.  The children were so so well behaved.  I just stood and watched as these  6 year olds walked into the Learning centre ( 30 children out of a class of 150) They sat on the rush mats and waited beautifully.  They passed the iPads along the line of 4, received their headphones, logged onto their group and found their names.  Without any further fuss they proceeded to work their way through the tasks on the iPads.  Hardly a word was spoken and certainly not by the children.

 

The smiles were enormous when they completed a task and if they got something wrong there was no question of asking for help, they just sat there and tried to work it out for themselves, and repeated it until they got it right or the program moved them on.  At the end of session they closed the iPads, took off their headphones and just moved silently out of the class.

 

These children were  6 years of age  and many had very very poor literacy and numeracy skills, if any.  To watch them working within this environment was just amazing.  Definitely some lessons to be learned by others I think 

 

 

My first introduction to schools and I cant wait to go into my own group of schools.

 

And then to round off a brilliant morning I watched as some of the children performed in front of the school.  I was invited to sit and watch.  And it was a role reversal  as the teachers took pictures of me just sitting there watching the festivities   It was a fantastic experience. This is Malawi

Monday June 26th and counting !

Another 10k ticked off ……

………..and one more day closer to going out to Malawi. I knew that the Great Manchester Run would be different to Blackpool but I have to say it was absolutely amazing.  Definitely something that I will always remember.  The crowds and the atmosphere were something that I wasn’t quite prepared for.  The support that came from the crowds really did make a difference.

Although I still didn’t manage to crack the 60 minute barrier, and I was following the 60 minute ‘banner guy’ all the way until the last couple of kms but never mind as they say it’s the taking part that counts – guess I shouldn’t have stopped to take a photo !!

But this race was something special following the dreadful happenings earlier on in the week. Puts everything in to perspective and whatever we can do to help each other, no matter how small or how big;  no matter what race, creed or colour; is so important – definitely taking my medal and t-shirt with me as a reminder.

On the Malaria tablets front, I have already bored people with the story so to précis  ( oh how clever is that – accent acute – Grade 8 O’level French all comes flooding back !) Choice of 3 types of tablets – I chose  one particular type – costed it out by asking the local Pharmacy.  Comment from pharmacist – “That’ll be £1,400 How long you going for ??? ” – I replied  – Errr – 12 months.  ‘This prescription is for 8 years !!” – ooops –  Suffice to say that I now have a new prescription for just 12 months. Anti rabies only one more to go, all other injections now received.

I was originally told that I was to work in Mangochi, which I believe is a largish town with over 100km between schools and training institutions. …… ‘Sorted’

Last week I heard that I was to be placed in Salima, a slightly smaller town on the shores of Lake Malawi.  I could stay in an apartment block that had various provisions including bars on the windows  and  Night Guard – … is that the same as Night Nurse ???? – ……… ‘Sorted’

Yesterday I was told that I am now back in Mangochi and at the moment have no accommodation but am assured that something will be found for me –  This way of organisation I am beginning to think is synonymous with the Project  …..  Anyone possess a tent with a mosquito net ? ……….. ‘Sorted ?’

Not sure about Man Friday’s footprints – haven’t found him yet !
I absolutely know where everything is or Just in case I need it for an Assembly

 

On a personal level, I had a number of tasks to undertake before I embark on the adventure.  Probably the number one was to clear the garage of all the years accumulated items since moving from Essex. Although of course I knew where absolutely everything was – no I did, honestly I did ……..  and could quite easily put my hand on any item within seconds, ….. well maybe minutes… there was a request that this be made a little simpler for others.  So last week I set to and with the help of a rather large skip, sheer ruthlessness and a few tears, I cleared the garage of some 25 years of ‘ I’ll just put that there as you never know it may well come in handy !” syndrome.

 

 

Still have the ‘Suzuki 100’ motor bike in there, which was my solution for getting to a school as an ‘Associate Head Teacher’ as it was the only way of getting there as the car was otherwise engaged.  It hasn’t seen the light of day for the last 22 years.

 

I’m told it’ll stand me in good stead for the Trials Bike that I’m going to have to learn to ride on the roads of Malawi to go and visit the schools – not totally convinced !

 

 

If anyone wants a Suzuki, please let me know. But for the first time in my life the car actually fits in the garage !

Again I have to mention the generosity of the people who have donated to my Just Giving page ( links at the side of my blog) The amazing generosity of you all has been absolutely brilliant.  A special thanks to Inglewhite Congregational Church where I gave a short talk about my proposed visit.  The generosity of the congregation was fantastic, as well as the verbal support in thoughts and prayers.    Also to the Freemasons, in particular the Capper Chapter, who although operate a considerable way from where I live,  were kind and generous enough to donate to my adventure with VSO.   Your generous donations are very much appreciated.

This Saturday is the village Whitsuntide Festival.  After more than 20 years of being the MC for this event – this quite definitely is my last

( I say that every year but this one definitely is !)   I love doing it but it really is time to let someone else have a go. You can’t get to me in Malawi – although knowing Mr & Mrs Butters I’m not convinced !!

 

I have now received my flight tickets so it is  all seeming very real. Important questions are starting to build.  Ive actually started putting a few clothes to one side thinking I wonder if I’ll need that ? What clothes should I take?  Now where did I put my suitcase ?  Can you buy fish and chips in Malawi?  What books should I take to read ?  ( alright alright I know I don’t read but I’m there for 12 months !!! ), How am I going to play my music ? Can you get Netflix in Malawi?      So many questions and so few answers ! ………

 

 

The next couple of weeks as you can imagine, are quite full with preparations and courses.  I won’t deny that I do have thoughts that go along the lines of ….   “Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh oh ‘my goodness’  (radio edit!) but I can’t tell you how much your support and words of encouragement mean to me – thanks x